Face Lift Floors
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- Tel: 416-425-8309
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- Face Lift Floors
- 108 Oak Park Ave
- Toronto, ON M4C 4M3
- Canada
What I offer is over 33 years of knowledge and skill in hardwood flooring. I still don't know everything.
Now, as to how I do my jobs - Preparation and skill are key. There is no need for plastic sheeting to be hung over doorways to keep airborn dust from drifting into other areas of the house, thanks to my dust containment system. Cleanup before coating is not an ordeal because of that system. At the end of the day, there is no dust on myself, the walls, window sills, baseboards or anywhere else! Before every application of polyurethane, the previous coating must be buffed or abraded to guarantee adhesion of the next coat. Then comes vacuuming and tack ragging with a water dampened cloth.
A special note which I believe sets my company apart from many others: I never use quick dry, laquer based sealers under oil based polyurethane. Why not? For years, working for other companies who used sealers, it became obvious that the floor we were re-sanding, if it had sealers as a base coat, simply whisked right off the floor. It came off easily. If it was a floor that a home owner did himself, with rental equipment, he would not have access to these sealers. He would apply a low quality varnish bought at the local building supply store. As awful as his job would be to look at, the cheap varnish, applied directly to the wood, was hard to remove. For years I told others these sealers weakened the final finish. They are basically used as a cheap way to make the finished polyurethane coats look thicker than they are. If you walk into a home or apartment and the entryway looks gray and weathered, it is probably because this type of sealer was used as a base coat and thepolyurethane wore off the floor in a year or so. I don't find that acceptable practice and I don't offer it to my customers with any recommendation. In fact, the national sales manager of a major coating manufacturer admitted to me that the use of these sealers as a base coat under polyurethane greatly degrades the performance of the polyurethane top coat. I will not guarantee your finish will not scratch if you drag something on it. Usually surface marks will happen, specifically in high traffic areas. After all, we are walking all over them. However, my approach is intended to minimize or remove the need to re-sand the floor every 5 years or so, thereby extending the life of the floor. All that is needed is regular cleaning with approved cleaners and buff the floor and apply another coat of polyurethane when wear dictates it is needed.
Now, as to how I do my jobs - Preparation and skill are key. There is no need for plastic sheeting to be hung over doorways to keep airborn dust from drifting into other areas of the house, thanks to my dust containment system. Cleanup before coating is not an ordeal because of that system. At the end of the day, there is no dust on myself, the walls, window sills, baseboards or anywhere else! Before every application of polyurethane, the previous coating must be buffed or abraded to guarantee adhesion of the next coat. Then comes vacuuming and tack ragging with a water dampened cloth.
A special note which I believe sets my company apart from many others: I never use quick dry, laquer based sealers under oil based polyurethane. Why not? For years, working for other companies who used sealers, it became obvious that the floor we were re-sanding, if it had sealers as a base coat, simply whisked right off the floor. It came off easily. If it was a floor that a home owner did himself, with rental equipment, he would not have access to these sealers. He would apply a low quality varnish bought at the local building supply store. As awful as his job would be to look at, the cheap varnish, applied directly to the wood, was hard to remove. For years I told others these sealers weakened the final finish. They are basically used as a cheap way to make the finished polyurethane coats look thicker than they are. If you walk into a home or apartment and the entryway looks gray and weathered, it is probably because this type of sealer was used as a base coat and thepolyurethane wore off the floor in a year or so. I don't find that acceptable practice and I don't offer it to my customers with any recommendation. In fact, the national sales manager of a major coating manufacturer admitted to me that the use of these sealers as a base coat under polyurethane greatly degrades the performance of the polyurethane top coat. I will not guarantee your finish will not scratch if you drag something on it. Usually surface marks will happen, specifically in high traffic areas. After all, we are walking all over them. However, my approach is intended to minimize or remove the need to re-sand the floor every 5 years or so, thereby extending the life of the floor. All that is needed is regular cleaning with approved cleaners and buff the floor and apply another coat of polyurethane when wear dictates it is needed.