Article Number : 2384 |
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| Date | 9/3/2007 11:08:44 AM |
| Written By | LGM & Associates Technical Flooring Services |
| View this article at: | //floorbiz.com/BizResources/NPViewArticle.asp?ArticleID=2384 |
| Abstract | BY ED KORCZAK Executive director, National Wood Flooring Association When most people think about installing wood floors, they typically envision a hammer, nails and a lot of back-breaking work... |
| Article | BY ED KORCZAK Executive director, National Wood Flooring Association When most people think about installing wood floors, they typically envision a hammer, nails and a lot of back-breaking work. There are, however, several options available, and choosing one will depend on the flooring used, whether it is installed above or below grade, and the subfloor material. Basically, there are three methods used to install wood floors: nail down, glue down and floating. Nail down Nailing down wood floors is the most common installation method. The process involves nailing the flooring directly to a wood subfloor. Typically, the flooring is blind nailed through the tongue so the nails are not visible after installation. This method works for solid and engineered floors, but only for wood subfloors. Nailing schedules are critical to ensure quality installations. The National Wood Flooring Association Installation Guidelines recommends fasteners be spaced 8 to 10 inches for solid flooring, and 4 to 8 inches for engineered flooring. Using fewer fasteners could result in cracks or squeaks, while using more could result in split tongues. Glue down The glue-down method involves using adhesive to adhere the flooring to the subfloor. Adhesives work by creating a bond between the subfloor and the wood flooring through a chemical reaction process. While all adhesives work by changing chemically from a viscose liquid to a solid, they differ in the carrying agents or catalysts that activate them. There are three types of wood flooring adhesives available today. They include water-based, solvent-based and moisture-curing. Because each type has different application and performance characteristics, you will need to choose which to use based on application ease, product performance and VOC regulations. Before beginning, make sure the subfloor is dry and level, and put down only as much adhesive as you can use in a 15- minute period. Any longer may cause installation failure as the bonding reaction may begin before the wood is installed. With many adhesives, the material must be applied for a specified period of time before the wood is installed. This is called flash time, which is critical to achieve optimal performance. Other adhesives, called wet-lay products, do not require any flash time. These adhesives require that the wood be installed immediately after the adhesive is applied, so be sure to understand the flash time for the product you use. Adhesive requirements vary among manufacturers, so check the manufacturer’s recommendations before installation begins. Follow the wood manufacturer’s recommendation for the adhesive to be used, and the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation for the trowel to be used. Floating Using this method, the flooring is neither nailed nor glued to the subfloor but floated above it. The flooring, usually engineered, is tradesmen can increase their earning potential by moving more quickly between jobs. Just lock the planks together, and customers can live on their new floors immediately. Plus, because glue, nails and staples are not needed when floating these floors, adhesive costs to the dealer are also lowered. And remember: In North America today more than 70% of new homes have concrete floors—homes perfect for a floating, locking hardwood floor. Engineered locking hardwood flooring is being offered in a number of structures. Three layer solid core and fiber core products have been offered in the market for a number of years and provide flexibility of installation over virtually any subfloor. Some of the newer products are being constructed using a multi-layer, plywood-like structure, which provides high dimensional stability, flexible installation over virtually any subfloor and higher moisture resistance than solid hardwood. This durable, rigid surface won’t shift or buckle and can be installed on any level of a home, including the basement. Attractive styling also contributes to this product’s saleability. Many of the older locking hardwood products are produced in Europe with 3-strip style visuals. Today’s newer products offer a variety of visuals and species specifically designed to appeal to the American consumer, driving greater interest and sales in the category. Now, floor buyers can choose from domestic wood species such as maple, oak, birch and ash as well as exotics like Bangkirai, bamboo, Australian wormy chestnut, merbau and Kona woods. Not only are these more visually appealing to the American market, but they are now available in shorter lengths for quicker, easier installation. 7-foot board lengths can be a bit much for one person to install, so manufacturers listened to what installers wanted and took it down to easy-to-manage 4-foot lengths. Today’s locking hardwoods feature a range of products and price points to meet the needs of virtually any consumer. If you can sell laminate flooring, you can easily sell quality locking hardwoods. It’s really that simple. glued or clipped to itself, tongue to groove, and at end joints. This gives the floor stability without actually fastening it to the subfloor. This installation method is ideal over existing floors such as laminates, which can be difficult to remove. Before beginning a floating installation, make sure the subfloor is dry and level. Level any high or low spots. A moisture barrier underlayment will decrease any hollow sounding areas that could occur. Make sure the underlayment wraps up the wall to completely encapsulate the flooring. Then, when the last board is installed, trim off the excess. The same basic principles apply to each installation method: follow manufacturer recommendations for installation, rack the wood to avoid “H” joint and stair-stepping, and allow enough expansion area. The NWFA provides detailed guidelines for each installation method in its Installation Guidelines. For more information, contact the NWFA or visit www.nwfa.org. |